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Cupini's 1809 Westport Rd.

Food Review

Ashley Lindemann

Issue date: 1/23/06 Section: Culture
Above is a large, well-lit sign offering what's not available in the case: paninis (hot, cold, and veggie) pastas, pizza, soup and more. However, the one thing you'll quickly notice missing from both the glass cases and the menu sign are prices.

When I'm operating with a limited supply of cash and need to run a quick price-comparison between two equally desirable entrees, I get quickly frustrated playing the mystery dollar game. Equally annoying is the prospect of quizzing the man behind the counter every five seconds until a final decision is reached.

To find the inexpensive meal I've promised, skip the ordering line, jump to the front and grab a to-go menu to peruse. The menu includes prices for everything on the big board, and from it I have inferred that most of the entrees in the glass case must be about the same, moderate price.

I staked my claim on the manicotti ($6.25) and a slice of plain cheesecake ($3.50), while my friend went with the surprising BBQ sandwich ($5.95). Her boyfriend ordered the cheese tortellini ($6.25) and chicken parmesan.

At Cupini's, you order and pay in one fell swoop before finding a table. Arriving near 1 p.m. on a weekday, I worried the wood-floored dining room humming with a determined chatter would be too full to seat my small group. By the time we filled our drinks from the drink fountain and wandered into the dining area, armed with the little metal sign that displayed our order number, the room had already begun to empty.

The food arrived quickly, but in staggered stages. The chicken parmesan showed up several minutes before the multi-colored cheese tortellini in a thin Alfredo sauce materialized at our table. Breaking the momentary silence that fell on our table as we ate, I commented that the Alfredo looked too thin for my appetite. I was politely reprimanded and informed it is actually quite delicious, despite consistency.

My manicotti was about what might be expected-giant rolls of pasta filled with cheese and topped, not drowned, in marinara sauce. The BBQ sandwich received a thumbs-up between mouthfuls and ended up a surprising success despite the mixing of food genres. The only thing missing from my meal was a giant basket heaping with bread. But fellow carbaholics can find an order of garlic bread for $1.25.

Next door to Cupini's eatery is Cupini's market. Fresh baked loaves of crusty bread, homemade sauces and nests of multi-flavored pasta that look like hearty skeins of yarn fill the tiny space to capacity.

If you ever need to impress someone with fine Italian cooking, this is clearly the place to seek out your ingredients.

alindemann@unews.com
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